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This is a TT gearbox motor (SKU TTWIR48) — a 3-6V DC brushed motor with a 1:48 plastic reduction gearbox, supplied with two wires already soldered onto the motor’s brush terminals. One version only, nothing to choose.
⭐ Specification
– Type: TT gearbox motor — brushed DC can motor with a moulded plastic reduction gearbox
– Operating voltage: 3-6V DC
– Gear ratio: 1:48
– Speed: about 200 RPM at 6V, no load. That is a 6V figure with nothing on the shaft. Run it lower down the 3-6V range, or put a load on it, and it will turn slower than 200 RPM.
– Output shaft: the gearbox face shown in our photo carries one white plastic output shaft — straight parallel sides, rounded end.
– Leads: two — one red, one black. No third wire, no signal wire, no encoder pair.
– Build: yellow moulded plastic gearbox body at one end, bare metal motor can at the other, joined by a white translucent plastic end bracket at the can end. That bracket has a rectangular mounting slot moulded into it, and the yellow gearbox housing has moulded corner lugs.
– Wiring rule: do not run this motor directly off a microcontroller output pin.
🔌 Connector & What Ships
– Motor end — already soldered, permanently. Two metal brush terminal tabs sit at the rear of the metal can. Each tab carries a solder joint made before it reaches you: one takes the black lead, the other takes the red lead. That is a soldered joint, not a plug, so the leads are not removable.
– Your end — bare wire. Both free ends are stripped back to a few mm of exposed conductor with a tinned tip. No plug, no Dupont housing, no JST housing, no header pin, no ferrule, no crimp lug and no heatshrink is fitted to either lead.
– Gender: none, because no connector is fitted. There is nothing male or female here to match. Nothing plugs into this motor and it plugs into nothing — you either clamp the bare tinned ends into a screw terminal, or you solder/crimp your own connector on.
– What is left for you to join: the wire-to-driver end. The motor-to-wire joint arrives already made; the joint at the far end of the leads is yours to make.
⚒️ Interesting Project
Build a small obstacle-avoiding robot.
Create a cool line-following robot car.
Design your own mini conveyor belt system.
📦 Package Includes:
– 1x TT gearbox motor, 1:48 ratio — yellow plastic gearbox body, metal motor can, white moulded end bracket
– 2x flying leads (1 red, 1 black) already soldered to the motor’s brush terminals. These are part of the motor, not separate accessories. Free ends are bare stripped wire.
Not included. No wheel and no tyre. No motor driver board. No battery or battery holder. No screws, nuts, standoffs, separate mounting brackets or chassis parts. No encoder disc. No connector, plug, pigtail or jumper wires. No adapter. You are buying the bare motor exactly as shown in our photo.
🧰 What You Also Need
– A way to drive it, matched to your build. If your microcontroller has to start, stop, reverse or speed-control the motor — a robot car, a line follower, a conveyor — put a motor driver board between the board and the motor and let the microcontroller control the driver. Never wire the motor to a microcontroller output pin: a brushed DC motor pulls far more current under load or when stalled than an output pin is built to supply. If the motor only has to spin one way whenever it is switched on, a 3-6V supply rated for the job plus a switch will run it without a driver.
– A 3-6V DC supply for the motor side, sized for your driver — a battery pack, not the microcontroller’s 5V pin.
– A way to terminate the bare ends. The leads end in bare tinned wire, so check what your driver accepts. A screw terminal takes bare wire, so you may need nothing but a screwdriver that fits it. If your driver or board only offers male pin headers or a Dupont socket, nothing will connect as supplied — you must solder or crimp your own connector onto the free ends first. Buying a bag of jumper wires on its own will not solve it, because there is nothing on the motor to plug a jumper into.
– A wheel, if your build needs one. Not included with this SKU.
– Mounting hardware, if you are bolting it to a chassis. The end bracket has a moulded slot and the gearbox has corner lugs, but no screws come with the motor.
❓ FAQ
Q: Is a wheel included at this price?
A: No. This listing is the motor on its own, with its two soldered leads. The photo shows everything you receive — no wheel, no tyre, no bracket kit.
Q: Do I need to solder anything?
A: Not at the motor end — the leads arrive already soldered on. Whether you solder at your end depends on your driver: a screw terminal can take the bare tinned ends as supplied, while a pin-header or Dupont-socket board needs you to fit your own connector first.
Q: Can I run it straight from an Arduino / ESP32 pin?
A: No. Put a motor driver between the board and the motor. A microcontroller pin is not built to drive a DC motor and you risk damaging the board.
Q: Do I always need a motor driver?
A: Only when the motor has to be controlled electronically — reversing, speed control, or switching from a microcontroller. A plain one-direction setup can run off a 3-6V supply rated for the motor with a switch in line.
Q: How fast does it turn on 3V?
A: Slower than the 200 RPM headline. That 200 RPM is at 6V with no load, so plan around the 6V figure and expect less at lower voltage or under load.
Q: My car runs backwards. Is the motor faulty?
A: Most likely not. A brushed DC motor follows the polarity you feed it, so swapping the red and black connections at the driver reverses that wheel. Check the wiring before concluding the unit is bad.
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No 12 (Ground Floor – 3D Printer & Parts) & (First Floor – Robotic Parts & Tools)
Jalan Tasik Utama 7,
Medan Niaga Tasik Damai,
Sungai Besi, 57000 Kuala Lumpur


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